Earthy and appealing – This wine will sustain your interest, says Jeff Gordon, City Weekly.

Elgo Estate winery in the Strathbogie Ranges not only produces some very smart wine, it does it with the objective of environmental sustainability. (The) estate boasts three rieslings, the best being the 2004 under the Elgo Estate label ($21 at cellar door), which has lemon and lime flavours with a mineral flinty backbone enhanced by some residual acidic bite. I have now had this three times and think it is just about to ‘turn’ and develop the depth of flavour of aged riesling.

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